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10 Days in Japan; Part 2 OSAKA, TOKYO, KYOTO: A TRAVELOGUE AND PHOTO ALBUM

5/26/2017

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Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and the Tenryuji Temple & gardens in Kyoto, Japan. Here is a shot I took from the overlook on the Hozu River
 So, while in Japan, where did I go and what did I do?  Here’s the scoop, along with some money saving and useful travel tips and advice:

OSAKA

Our home base for the entire trip was the lovely Hilton Osaka.  It has all the things I look for in a hotel: Clean, safe, quiet, good bathroom, in-room refrigerator and coffeemaker, hairdryer, iron, and robes provided, and rounding out the list: Location, location, location!  Part of that “location” criteria is proximity to food, and, although I didn’t try all their restaurants, I loved their breakfast buffet.  Though a bit spendy at ¥3500 (about $35.00 or €28) you can eat and drink your fill from an impressive array of Japanese, European, and American offerings, and it’s not limited to breakfast fare, so come hungry. I also got a great deal on a fabulous 90 minute Swedish and Shiatsu massage in the hotel spa for only ¥13,000 (under $130.00 or €105ish), and included complimentary access to the steam room and hot bath.

As far as convenience, the Hilton Osaka is ridiculous!!  It’s part of Osaka Station City… aptly named, as it’s less a train station and more a city unto itself.  This multi-towered metropolis houses huge department stores, markets, hotels, theaters, restaurants, currency exchange stations… honestly, it’s too much to name here!  You would need a week or more to explore the entire place (I could have spent a day in their massive Uniqlo store, alone, woo HOO!), but here are some highlights:

The glorious, and not to be missed, Umeda Tsutaya bookstore.  If you are a lover of books, stationary, greeting cards, travel, collectibles, or any and all things beautiful and unique, this place is Nirvana.  Laid out in a huge, user friendly oval, which I could have lazily spun around exploring for hours, you’ll be hard pressed to leave without a basketful of treasures… but then, why the heck would you want to??
 
Hanagatami Restaurant at the Ritz Carlton Osaka.  The Ritz Carlton Osaka is stunning.  Blissfully hushed hallways, tangerine marbled floors softened with woven Oriental carpets, dark wood paneled walls, chandeliered coffered ceilings, tall, green Calla Lilies resting in huge glass vases… and that was just the hallway to the restaurant!  We ordered a-la-carte and ate an incredible array of Japanese delicacies which were prepared and presented in a way that was treat for all the senses!! 

The 7Eleven (you heard me) in Osaka Station.  Nope, it ain’t the Ritz Carlton, but I assure you, this is not your average Slurpee mill.  Think clean, bright, and shiny!!  I mention it only because the cost of eating out 3 meals a day, 7 days a week, can get tiresome, fattening, and costly (oh, my!); and sometimes you just want to sit in your room and eat in front of the TV without paying the inflated cost of room service.  This isn’t fine dining, but it is a great grab and go on the cheap.  The quality is higher, the selection is far greater, and the coffee is exponentially better than I expected to find.  Trust, my friends.  Trust.
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Another fabulous restaurant alternative, also in Osaka Station, is the Daimaru "Feast Paradise" Food Hall.  I mentioned it in the Japan “Part 1” post, but it bears repeating.  It’s also a grab and go of sorts, but in a decidedly elevated fashion.  The market itself is a sight to behold and many of the offerings are gift worthy.  On more than one late night, on the way from the train to the hotel, we shopped for a variety of freshly baked breads and pastries, fresh fruit, juices, and some of the most delicious yogurt I’ve ever enjoyed, brought it back to the hotel, popped it in the little fridge and, come morning, enjoyed a much needed, leisurely breakfast in the room, in my robe, and at a bargain price!  Yes, please!

Osaka Castle.  A 15 minute taxi ride from the Hilton transported us to another land.  Set high on a hill surrounded by a sheer cut Japanese Burdock Piling rock wall and a moat, this five story castle is a sight to behold!  We took at least two hours exploring the castle and 15 acre park, but could have spent far longer!  Sweeping views in every direction from atop the castle, stunning paths and gardens and, in our case, cherry blossoms reflecting in the still waters of the moat, make this a photographer’s paradise.  Please pay special attention to your entry point, as there are several… we didn’t, and spent and additional 30 minutes trying to find our way back to the taxi stand.  Oops.

Universal Studios Japan:  As they say, all work and no play… so we hit the park!!   Ok, soooo…. The last time I went to Universal Studios it was on the backlot in Hollywood; we rode a bus past the “Leave it to Beaver” and “Psycho” houses, and I played on the big telephone from “Land of the Giants”.  Yeah, THIS is not THAT.  WOW, Universal, what a difference a mere four decades have made!  This place knocked my socks off!   The highlights, for me, were the brand-new Minion Park and the Wizarding World of Harry Potter.  Even if you don’t know your Muggles from your Malfoys, the sheer grandeur of Hogwarts, et al, is worth the trip!  It is majestically beautiful and the rides were amazing!   And, MAJOR BONUS, we were lucky enough to be there for the grand opening of Minion Park!!  If you’re a fan of Despicable Me and the Minions (and, seriously, who isn’t??) you will LOVE it!!  Food, photo ops, fun… and MINIONS!!  The Minion Mayhem ride is the real deal.  So “real”, in fact, I had to close my eyes for parts of it because, although it’s supposed to be a “simulated immersion HD experience”, you cannot tell me that we weren’t actually being hurled though the GIANT dome theater that is Gru’s lab.  Sheesh!!  Call me Grandma, but it scared the crap outta me… although everyone, including all the children, seemed to really love it.  Yeah, whatever, moving along.  Both Minion Park & the Minion Mayhem ride are opening to rave reviews (from people who actually kept their eyes open).  Start to finish, we had a blast.  What a joy filled day that was!!
 
TOKYO

I was only there for a couple of days and saw relatively little, but if I had to describe Tokyo in a word it would be “clean”.  Not a bad word for a city!!  We took the Shinkansen Bullet Train from Osaka... it's about a 500 mile trip (800 km) but that bad boy goes about 200 mph (320 km/h), so in less than two and a half hours, we were there!  We got off the train and started exploring.  We shopped in the Akihabara gaming district and Shibuya City, and experienced Shibuya Crossing, known as the Times Square of Tokyo.  We ate in a tatami room at a restaurant called Higashi-Yama Tokyo, which was a sublime, eloquent, presentation of deliciousness.   Here are a few more highlights:

Hilton Tokyo Odaiba:  We stayed here only one night but what a night it was.  First of all, the view from our room was staggering.  One of the best I’ve ever seen.  An eye-popping panorama across Tokyo Bay to the city of Tokyo beyond.  The hotel boasts easy access to a beautiful footpath along the bay and through Odaiba Seaside Park where dozens of fruit trees were in full bloom.  We were also able to walk to a water taxi, which took us across the Bay and offered some spectacular views of the city, the bay, the Rainbow Bridge (no, not the one our beloved pets have crossed), Odiaba, and dropped us off in the city.  The room itself was great, checked all the boxes but, honestly, it was all about that jaw dropping, once in a lifetime view! 

Tokyo DisneySea.  I’m gonna let my dork flag fly high and proud here:  It was A-MAZ-ING.  We arrived at about one o’clock in the afternoon.  The plan was to stay for two or three hours, just to check it out, be on the Bullet Train back to Osaka by five pm, and call it an early night.  About an hour into our visit we booked a hotel room there so we could stay until closing.  We spent approximately nine hours in the park and it was nowhere near enough.  The best park I’ve ever seen in my life. Bar none.  Period.  To say there is nowhere else like it in the world is true, both literally and figuratively.  I’d go back in a heartbeat.   If you are a Disney fan, or a park fan in general, I’m not joking when I say a trip to Japan is worth it just to see this park.  It’s that good.  Mind.  Blown.   

OK, back to food!  Do you like sushi?  Do you like sashimi?  Yes, you say??  Two words: “kaiten-zushi”.  That’s 回転寿司 in Japanese.  It literally translates to “rotation sushi” or, as we call it here in the States, conveyor belt sushi.  Delicious and so dang cheap!!  I ate like a sumo wrestler for maybe 20 bucks.  To put that into perspective, that’s about the price of one specialty roll at a decent Japanese restaurant in LA.  It ain’t fancy, but who cares when you can trough up to a sushi bar and have at it??  If you love sushi like I love sushi, do yourself a favor, just go.  Dōitashimashite.  You’re welcome.

KYOTO

Kyoto is magical.  I'd already spoken of the Zen Buddhist temple I visited in my last post, and it was one of only three places I visited in Kyoto.  Here are the other two:

Wonder Café.  And a wonder it was!!  We stumbled upon this tiny restaurant after visiting the Shunkion Temple in Kyoto and I felt as though I was walking smack dab into the culmination of someone’s lifelong dream… a dream to have a tiny little restaurant, serving excellent food at an extremely reasonable price, and to fill every inch of the place with a lifetime of collectibles.  The older couple who own this gem turned out to be the two nicest people I met on this entire journey.  They seemed genuinely delighted that we came there to eat, and downright tickled to share their treasure trove of memorabilia.  Rolling Stones, Beatles, Mr. Potato Head, Barbie; If it was from the UK, US, or Japan, circa 1960’s, it was there.  We had a delicious four course lunch for under ten dollars and, despite a rather large language barrier, the woman gave us maps, directions, and even escorted us to the train stop just down the street, personally delivering us to the exact spot from where we’d catch our train to our next destination.  I left there with a full belly and an even fuller heart.  I will remember them always. Wonder Café, 616-8016 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, Ukyo Ward, Ryoanji Nishinokawacho
 
Tenryu-ji Temple, Hyakka'en (Garden of a Hundred Flowers) and Sagano Bamboo Forest.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site.   I consider this area a “must see”.  I arrived via train and, once there, I looked around, took a deep breath, and said to myself “OK. now I KNOW I’m in Japan”, as every inch of this masterpiece felt so iconically indigenous.   I explored the stunning temple, it’s meandering and meticulously kept gardens, and the extraordinary bamboo forest, and found them to be transcendent.  I was only in Japan for about a week and a half and chose my destinations wisely… and a few days later, I came back here a second time.  On my second visit, we arrived late morning and were meant to stay there only a couple of hours, then continue exploring other parts of Kyoto; but we stayed until just before nightfall.  Given the opportunity, I’d go back a third time.   Some places just speak to you. 
 
So that’s my two cents worth on Japan.  Click on the names of the places I've mentioned for a link.  

As I said at the beginning of “Part 1” of this blog-post, I never expected to go to Japan but, now, having been there, I would definitely go back.  I also said that it had changed me.   It has, in the best possible way.  This, my friends, is why I travel. 
 
How has a trip changed you?  Please comment below and share your story!
 
HERE'S WHAT I'VE LEARNED:

1) If you don’t speak the language, kindness, patience, and respect make a great interpreter.

2) Use your cell phone to take pictures of the name of your destination, and your home base, and other important requirements such as “the express train, please.” in the native language of where you’re visiting.  You can show it to ticket agents and taxi drivers and get help if you go off course. 

3) Be flexible with your itinerary and schedule.  You may find a place that you adore and may want to linger and enjoy.

4) If you’re traveling with others, be honest with your expectations, and level of interest in a place, and allow them to do the same.  If their dream is to get to as many places as possible and yours is to find one place you love and spend hours there, say so!  It’s everyone’s trip!  Remember the old saying “Expectations are resentment waiting to happen.”   

5)  Conversely, be open to exploring places you may not have thought of.  I hadn’t heard of the bamboo forest, someone else suggested it.  I was exhausted at the time and wasn’t going to go.  I ate, had some water, and changed my mind.  It turned out to be one of my favorite places of the entire trip!  NICE!! 

6) Be mindful of “floor seating” and tatami rooms if you’re not used to them.  Hard floors and no back rest can quickly become an issue for western knees, backs, and bums.  I teach yoga and meditation and, while trying to enjoy an elaborate 90-minute dinner, found it uncomfortable after about 30 minutes.  If you are going to be sitting on the floor, stay away from tight jeans; fabrics with some stretch and movement are your friends!

7) When converting yen to US dollars just knock off the last two zeros: ¥1000 = $10; ¥50,000 = $500, and so on, and you’ll be close.  Soon you’ll be droppin’ yen like a rock star.  “Yeah, I just spent 2500 on lunch… so WHAT??”  “500 for a venti chai latte?   That’s just how I roll.”
QUOTE FOR THE DAY:
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“WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU DID SOMETHING FOR THE FIRST TIME?"
 
 ~JOHN C. MAXWELL~

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EAT, PRAY, EAT, LOVE, EAT;  10 DAYS IN JAPAN; Part 1

5/18/2017

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Shunkō-in Zen Buddhist Temple, Kyoto, Japan
Japan changed me.  I never expected to go to Asia.  It wasn’t on my list of top 5 or 10 places I wanted to visit in my lifetime.  Other than, perhaps, the islands of Thailand or Angor Wat it wasn’t really on my radar.   I guess it was a combination of being overshadowed by my “dream destinations” and my preconceived notions of what it would be like…  not gonna lie, having read “The Good Earth” in my early twenties hadn’t exactly catapulted that part of the world into the “dream vacation” stratosphere for me.  I mean, sure, the mountains and temples look beautiful but my mind’s eye was blinded by images of massive, noisy cities, throngs of people, and choking smog… sensory overload at its worst.  Add to that marauding bands of wild monkeys??  Hmmmm… Just not my kind of place.  But when the opportunity arose to go to Osaka, Tokyo, and Kyoto, I jumped at it… I mean, c'mon... I'm a self proclaimed "world traveler", RIGHT???  And I am SO grateful I did because, MAN, my mind’s eye had been playing tricks on me!!  I’m not saying that there weren’t parts that overwhelmed the senses… one of our friends took us to the Tokyo gaming district… but even that was fantastic in its excess, albeit in a small dose.  The irony was this:  The reality of my Japanese experience was all incredibly…. dreamlike. 

EAT

When traveling, it’s always a good idea to pack really comfortable walking shoes; we walked an average of 5 or 6 miles a day.  Good thing… because, as usual, the food was incredible!!  I ate, roughly, the equivalent of my own body weight in sushi, sashimi, gyoza, miso, and rice alone!  From a glorious, artful, dinner presentation at the Ritz Carlton Osaka that was as much a feast for the eyes as it was for the palate, to the visually stunning, yet budget friendly, Daimaru "Feast Paradise" markets in the Osaka (Train) Station… you will want to try it all!!

I wanted to experience every level of gastronomic availability.  The luxury Michelin star cuisine in Tokyo and the tiny, dark, side street haunts that are off the TripAdvisor radar.  I wanted to taste the “real” Japan!  But just how adventurous was I willing to be when it came to food??  Let’s just say I set my "adventure" goal at somewhere between “I’m in a foreign land and I want to try new things!!“ and “Oh HELL, no.  I am NOT eating that s***!!”  And so it was!  I ate any manner of sea creature (tentacles and all), I ate flowers (spicy!), I ate “ribs” (not sure whose!), I discovered that I really dislike Soba noodles (and that you’re not supposed to drink the water they're served in. Who knew?), I ate things that I really wish I knew what they were… in some cases it’s so I could eat it again and other times so I can avoid it at all costs.  I drew an indelible line at any “gelatinous mass” I encountered… and you would be surprised at how many I DID encounter.  Eww.  

A bit of advice: When you’re off the beaten path and away from the places that cater to tourists, keep your eyes open for signs that say “Japanese Only”, or for owners that wave their arms at you, or make an "X" with their forearms, in a fashion that tells you to scat.  Not all places are delighted to have Americans and/or Europeans as patrons.  Some forbid it.  It’s legal and it’s their prerogative.  Instead, look for signs (both literal and figurative) that let you know you’re welcome.  Many are obvious, such as “We Have English Menus!” or if they’re pleased to see you, and/or invite you in.   Also know that many places close between lunch and dinner.  Wait too long to have lunch and you may find yourself “hangry” and SOL!  (Ask me how I know.  pfft.)

But not to worry!  There are so many wonderful places. large and small, that welcome you with open arms.  You’ll have no shortage of choices!  When you need a break from Japanese cuisine we found Italian, German, and American food (TGIFriday’s, anyone??  Not kidding!!) without too much difficulty. 

PRAY:

The Shunkō-in Temple.  I found it in a Google search before I left home.  I am a yoga and meditation instructor and I was a Licensed Massage Therapist for many years and so, there were just two things I knew I had to do while I was in Japan:  Experience a Shiatsu massage and meditate at a Zen Buddhist Temple.  I did both.
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The Shunkō-in Temple and Guesthouse in Kyoto is a Zen Buddhist temple that holds meditation classes, followed by a temple and garden tour, maccha green tea and Japanese sweets, all for only 2,500 yen (less than 25 US dollars and just over 20 euro).  All people are welcome.

 The meditation is led by Deputy Head Priest, Reverend Takafumi Kawakami, who talks about incorporating mindfulness meditation into today’s world of social media and constant connectivity, and whom I later discovered does Ted Talks!!  COOL!!  I was only there for about an hour and a half, total, but the experience was so special to me, so “once in a lifetime”, that I have no doubt it will remain one of the most memorable experiences of my life.


Which brings me to:

LOVE

May I suggest that, when you travel, you find a few things that are incredibly important to you.  Things that you either can’t do anywhere else, that were originated in the region, or that the location you’re in would make the experience that much more meaningful to you, and make sure you do them.  Even if you have to venture off on your own… as long as you’re safe, BE the solo traveler.  Don’t travel thousands of miles and then allow another 20 or 50 or 75 miles, the lack of a companion, or fear, prevent you from doing something that makes your heart sing.  Hire a guide, talk to the hotel concierge, take a taxi, take a train.  When I was sitting on that woven grass mat,  getting ready to meditate, in a temple, in KYOTO, JAPAN (!!!) I had tears of joy and gratitude in my eyes.  I hadn’t traveled nearly 6000 miles to tell myself that another 40 miles by train was too far to go to make a dream come true!!  Travel should open your eyes, open your heart, and change you.  Let it.

Like I said… Japan changed me.  Here’s how:

I’ve always had an inclination toward quiet and a sense of space and order in my surroundings, my life and my career.  Generally speaking, I don’t like a lot of noise or commotion, and I can’t even think among clutter, yet, in recent years, the amount of “stuff” I’ve accumulated has exceeded the areas in which I have to comfortably store it.  Simply put: I have way too much crap!  So the organization of belongings and the lack of “stuff” I found in Japan… in the décor, in the gardens, even in the hotel rooms… was a powerful motivator for me.  When I came home I did a quick google search and found the book: "The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up: The Japanese Art of Decluttering and Organizing" by Marie Kondō.  It was a lot of work on many levels, but within a week of returning from Japan I had happily let go of approximately 50% of my belongings.   What a relief!

I’ve rediscovered the freedom and luxury of Space.  Space in empty drawers and cupboards, space between my belongings, space to think and breathe… and it opened up space for even more travel, adventure, experiences… and love.   

So for that, Japan, I say arigatou gozaimashita.  Thank you.

​In part 2 of this blog I'll give more specifics on destinations... stay tuned!!  In the meantime click the lighter gray text to follow links!

​HERE'S WHAT I'VE LEARNED:

1) Don't decide what a place is going to be like before you get there.

2) Not everyone is going to like you and, as we already know, this has a lot more to do with them than with you.  

3) Don't wait until you're starving to decide on a place to eat. 

4) Letting go can be a very good thing.

5) If you find a pair of REALLY comfortable shoes that are cute, buy them!!  They'll be worth their weight in gold!


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QUOTE FOR THE DAY:

“CHANGE BEGINS AT THE END OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE.”
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~ROY T. BENNETT~
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All I Did Was Get a Passport…

4/13/2017

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,Soooo… where was I?  
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Oh yeah… I had fished my bike ride through the Cotswold’s and was about to take a car to St Pancras Railway Station in London.  From there, I rode the Eurostar under the English Channel to glorious Paris, France.  Paris was, in every way, shape, and form, magical to me.  I am, by no means, a city girl, but I fell head over heels in love with that city!

OK, so here’s what happened…

Before I left for my trip, I was walking with one of my closest friends in my hometown of Santa Barbara, and we were discussing my upcoming, twenty-one day, English adventure.  I was planning on being in London for more than a week and, from there, you can take a train to any number of fascinating destinations, so why not hop the Eurostar to Paris???  I mean, I’m there, so why the heck wouldn’t I, right??  My friend agreed that it was, indeed, a total no brainer.  She then asked me if, perhaps, I would like a Parisian tour guide, because, if so… she knew a guy...  Someone who had grown up in Paris, had lived and worked in the US for years, spoke fluent English, and happened to be back in Paris at that time. 

Hmmm… based solely on my abysmal performance in 9th grade French class, I thought having a native French interpreter wouldn’t be the worst idea.  So, once we clearly established that he was not some sort of axe murderer* but, in fact, a really nice guy, and I would be completely safe in his charge, I agreed to have her put us in touch.  And so, she did.

I would now like to interject with the fact that my dear friend had a secret ulterior motive... it was a set up!  Unbeknownst to either of us, she though the "tour guide" and I would make a great match.  

OK, soooo... let's just say that for the past two years I've no longer been traveling solo, and leave it at that, shall we??  

OK!!  Great!!  Moving along! 
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Paris was a whirlwind!!  I as given the tour of a lifetime by a local!!  Notre Dame, the carousel, The Louvre, the Musée d'Orsay, the Champs-Élysées, the Arc de Triomphe, and the Eiffel Tower!!  It was Springtime in Paris and it was perfect!!   We had dinner at the Restaurant Ciel de Paris on the 56th floor of the Tour Montparnasse, a skyscraper with a view of the Eiffel Tower and all of Paris, and with a dinner cruise down the Seine.  It was, literally, breathtaking.  Like being on "The Bachelor", but without all those other pesky broads vying for my fella. 
 
I also had the opportunity to do some solo exploration!  Armed with a map to “Le Marais”, the historic district, with it’s incredible architecture and shops, and with a few essential phrases, “en français”, that every girl needs when she’s out shopping: “Merci, je regarde seulement” or “Thank you, I’m only looking” and “Je voudrais une crêpe Nutella, s'il vous plaît” which means: “I would like a Nutella crepe, please”, and off I went alone into the heart of Paris!!  Although “Je regardais seulement” I managed to come back with a dress, a jacket, a purse, 6 bars of soap, the most ridiculously rich and fluffy body cream I’ve ever experienced in my life (made, I think, from the clouds on which angels lay down their sleepy haloed heads to dream, and lavender), oh, and a box of 6 assorted eclairs.  Not bad for a girl who speaks no French!!  I imagine that, once I learn the language I could do some real damage!!

Alas, soon it was time to leave Paris.  I went back to Gare du Nord to catch the Eurostar back to London.  This is where I learned about a little something called "Proof of Onward Travel".  Oh, boy...

The big, uniformed, British man behind the glass asked me for my passport, ticket, and “proof of onward travel from England.”  I handed him my train ticket and passport and said “Excuse me, Sir, my onward what??"  “Proof of Onward Travel, Miss.  I can’t let you into England if you can’t prove you have the means to leave." (to which I eloquently responded with a blank stare.) "Do you think they’d let me into America without proof that I was going to leave?" he asked... and then answered for himself:  "They would not.”  “Well I have a ticket." I said.  "I’m flying out of Heathrow, back to the US in 3 days on Air New Zealand.”  “Good.  Let me see it.”  “Well I don’t have my boarding pass, it’s too soon.”  “Well what am I to do”, he asked, “take your word for it?”  “Sir, I have a receipt for the purchased ticket but it’s in my email and I don’t have internet right now.”  “You know I can detain you right now.” he said.   To this I had no response... a rare moment when I was stuck completely silent.

“MISS!!  Do you have proof of onward travel or not?”  “Sir”, I said, “I didn’t know I needed it.  This is my first trip and I’ve never heard of that before.  I know that’s no excuse, but I’m sorry, it’s the truth.  If you can get me internet I can show you the proof of purchase from the airline.”  He said “If I take you back there and they detain you, you’ll have internet but, I assure you, you won’t make your train.”  If his intention was to be really intimidating, he was a rip-roaring success!  We stared at each other.  He took my passport, slammed the stamp in it and said “Go.”  I said “Thank you!” and he said “Word to the wise, Miss; next time take a screen shot of your ticket.”  “Yes, Sir.  Thank you.”  And I bolted toward the train.  In a few days, I was back in Santa Barbara…

Since then, I've been to the South of France seven (7!!) times, and I have been to Ireland with my best friend!!  I’ll give you more details about those fabulous places in upcoming posts but… we’re about to leave on another trip to a brand new (for me) destination and I’ll write about that first!! 
 
So, seriously, all I did was get a passport and send out a message to the Universe that I was ready to travel the world!!  The rest, as they say, is history!!
 
*Yes, gentleman, ascertaining that you are not a(n) “axe murderer/rapist/serial killer”, etc. is standard operating procedure among women when compiling the verbal dossier/background check on all men, platonic or otherwise, prior to introduction.  Now you know.

HERE'S WHAT I'VE LEARNED:

1) If you can find a local to give you a tour (provided, of course, that you've established, beyond a reasonable doubt, the he/she is not some sort of axe murderer), do it!!

2) Even if you're traveling with someone else, make time to do some solo exploration (just be sure your safe)... it helps to push you outside of your comfort zone!  You can do it!!

3) There are REALLY fabulous apps for navigating the subways and trains.  Use them!!

4) If you're someplace where you don't speak the language, make the effort to learn a few key phrases.  Your effort will usually be noticed and appreciated.    

5) Generally speaking, its not Americans people have a problem with... it's rudeness.  You're visiting so be polite!

6) Always have proof of onward travel... and a wise man once told me to take a screen shot of said proof... you know, in case you don't have internet.  ;)

QUOTE FOR THE DAY:

“FOLLOW YOUR BLISS AND THE UNIVERSE WILL OPEN DOORS FOR YOU WHERE THERE WERE ONLY WALLS.” 
~JOSEPH CAMPBELL~




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OH WHERE, OH WHERE, HAS OUR TRAVELER GONE?

12/14/2015

4 Comments

 
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OK, I admit, it’s been awhile… and when I say “awhile” I mean about a year, give or take.  Nearly 8 months, actually.  Where the heck have I been, you ask?  Oh, all over the place!!  There have been lots of traveling adventures and lots of changes in my life.  BIG changes!  We’ll get to all that soon enough, but first, let’s backtrack a bit.
 
When we last left our intrepid traveler, I was somewhere in South Central England fulfilling my dream of biking in the English countryside… exploring idyllic villages, crisp spring breezes playfully tousling my hair, and the gently rolling hills putting a healthy pink glow in my cheeks.  Well, the villages are, indeed, idyllic… in fact it’s like falling into the pages of a storybook!  The bike ride, as you may recall, not so much.  Due to some, shall we say...  optimistically naive planning on my part, my dreams of carefree days spent mindlessly peddling aside grassy meadows were dashed upon the craggy moors like young Heathcliff’s heart.  I nearly busted a lung climbing those hills!  But after riding to four separate villages over the course of a week, I finally arrived in Bampton, the last town on my tour, (and, OMG, the filming location for the village scenes in Downton Abbey.  YIPPIE!!)  I limped into to town pushing my bike, flat tire and all (yeah, you heard me), the final 3 miles (that's three MILES) of my journey.  Woo HOO.
 
But wait, there’s MORE!
 
Prior to my arrival in town, and adding insult to injury, was my brief encounter with the man I like to call “The Irate Englishman”. Here’s how we met:  In an attempt to stay off of a somewhat narrow and very busy road, I rode my bike on a tiny dirt path that ran alongside, where a sidewalk might have been.  That’s where I got the flat tire.  I got off the bike and began to push.  The path soon became impassable; the brush so thick there was, literally, nowhere for me to go but back into the road.  That’s when he showed up and went all Scott Farkus on me.  
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It was a small, two lane road and another car was coming toward me, he was coming up from behind.   There wasn’t enough room for all three of us side by side, so The Irate Englishman had to wait (oh, NO!) for the oncoming car to pass. He drove up right behind me and stopped, revving the engine like he was waiting for the checkered flag to drop at Indy.  When the other car had passed he hit the gas, peeled out around me (totally freaking me out), and he was gone.  Or so I thought.  Nope, not so fast.  He took time out of his obviously busy day to turn around so he could come back and yell at me.  So I’m standing there with my gimpy bike, watching him barrel back at me in his unnecessarily shiny, cherry red pickup truck, and I’m thinking: “Ohhhh (insert adult language)”.   He stops, rolls down his window, his hair and face both beet red and, in what I gather was an attempt to “educate” me (and justify his actions), starts yelling: “IT’S LIKE THIS, LOVE…  I’M TRYIN’ T’ DRIVE IN THE BLOODY ROAD, YOU’RE BLOCKIN’ THE BLOODY ROAD, AND ONLY ONE OF US IS MEANT T’ BE ‘ERE!!!”  “Um, I’m sorry sir, but I’m pretty sure ONE of us wants me in this "bloody road" a hell of a lot less than the other.  And, just so you know, even if you start your rant by calling me “Love” it’s still really rude and highly unsettling.”  But I didn’t say that.   I didn’t say anything.  I just stood there staring at him.  A wave of relief washed over me as he jammed on the gas, peeled out, and drove away. 
 
But, hey, I’m fine and, in retrospect, it does make a pretty good story!
 
On a happier note, I've including a couple of pics of my day in Bampton.  When I got there* the crew was setting up for filming of Downton Abby!  It was FABULOUS!!   *And when I say "got there" I, of course, mean the next morning, because when I ARRIVED in Bampton, I went directly to my bed & breakfast, took a ridiculously hot bath, had an amazing dinner, and flopped into bed.

Another happy result worth noting is that the bike ride allowed me to offset so many calories that I ate like a lumberjack AND lost at least 5 lbs in a week!  So, yeah... not all bad!!
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Here's what I've learned:
 
1) "The Irate Englishman" was the exception, not the rule.  In fact he was, pretty much, the only person I encountered in the Cotswolds that wasn't warm, welco
ming, and friendly to a fault!  The people there were some of the nicest folks I've had the pleasure of meeting in my travels!
2) The "BBR" (Bad Bike Ride) was entirely my fault.  A gentle, carefree, sightseeing tour would have been mine had I let the professionals at Cycle Cotswolds (click HERE for link) handle my planning.... they're amazing!!  However, if a really challenging cycling trip is what you have in mind, you can have that, too... and anything in between!
3) I cannot possibly overstate the beauty of the Cotswolds region of England.  It's simply breathtaking.
 
Well that’s all for this week…  But next time remind me to tell you about The Swan… and the Frenchman….

QUOTE FOR THE DAY:

"PLEASE BE A TRAVELLER, NOT A TOURIST.  TRY NEW THINGS, MEET NEW PEOPLE, AND LOOK BEYOND WHAT'S RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU.  THOSE ARE THE KEYS TO UNDERSTANDING THIS AMAZING WORLD WE LIVE IN."
~ANDREW ZIMMERN~

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BIKING THE COTSWOLDS; ROUND ONE!

4/27/2015

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Biking the English countryside from village to picture perfect village!!  Buds and flowers bursting, gently rolling hills, stone walls stretching as far as the eye can see, baby lambs and bunny rabbits abound!!   What could be better than that??   How about getting out in the sunshine, breathing the cool, fresh Spring air and, who are we kidding… burning tons of calories so we don’t gain an once as we sample every local delicacy in sight!?!  Oh, yeah!!  That’s what I’M talkin’ about!!  And that’s EXACTLY what this bike ride was like!!  Well… that’s exactly what it was like… in my MIND.  The reality of it was just a teensy weensy bit different.  How was it different, you ask??   Hmmmm… let’s see… Planning a bike ride nearly 6000 miles away, in a country I’ve never been, based on terrain that exists, primarily, in my imagination… let’s just go out on a limb here and say that it may not be the best idea I’ve ever had.    But it really I SEEMED like a good idea the time.

Let me just say this first… the fact that my bike ride through the Cotswolds wasn’t a rousing success was to no fault of the cycling company with whom I made the arrangements… they were fabulous.  No, no the fault lies with me.   But if you want to take this opportunity to learn from my mistakes and give it a go, you should have a fabulous time!! 

A bit about the bike rental company: Cycle Cotswolds  http://www.cyclecotswolds.co.uk/, in Chipping Campden, UK, is run by the lovely couple, Stefania and Peter, and they offer an entire suite of services, including bike and equipment rental, custom cycling routes, bicycle pick up and/or delivery (within a certain radius) should your journey begin and/or end somewhere other than Chipping Campden, and if you don’t feel like schlepping your bags along on your ride they’ll even give your luggage a lift and have it waiting at your destination!!  May I suggest (nay, implore) that you take full advantage of ALL these services?  Trust me, their value far outweighs the nominal cost.   I, sadly, did not.  I had decided, in advance, which villages I wanted to visit, Google mapped the distance between them to ensure I was keeping it (I thought) to about 12 to 14 miles, and asked if they could map out the best bike route.  They did exactly what I’d asked.  I now know I did far too much planning myself, without any real knowledge of the area.  Had I told them what I was looking for, released control and allowed them to plan my trip, especially with regard to the distance and level of difficulty I was comfortable with, and let them chose my towns accordingly (because, let’s face it, they’re all beautiful!), I’m thinking these next few posts would be entirely different!!  But I didn’t.  Ah, well… this is how we learn!!

OK, back to my ride.  The day before I left I was fitted with a bike by Peter, and he went over my route.  While looking at my itinerary, I’d noticed that my second day of riding was quite long… 18.4 miles!!  Peter said that they’d given me a longer route to avoid some of the busiest roads.  This made good sense to me and, since I’m in pretty good shape, I didn’t think too much of the extra miles.  The morning of my ride I, once again, ate an astoundingly large English breakfast (hey, come on, I needed the fuel!!), packed up, checked out, and was ready to go.   Stefania gave me their emergency contact info, some last minute tips for navigating my way out of town (“you’re going to go up a big, big hill but you’ll get a great view at the top!”), and with hug, a smile, and some parting words of encouragement… she watched as I peddled away.

I was off!!  Down the main street, where I’d staggered into town only two days before, delirious with jet lag, I rode like the wind... hair flying behind me!! (ok, maybe “like the wind” is a bit of an exaggeration… I was actually moving in a forward motion just fast enough that I didn’t tip over.  And… my hair was in a ponytail and shoved haphazardly under my helmet, so I may have taken a bit of artistic license there, as well.)  I expertly navigated the first 3 turns out of town without incident (maybe because I stopped about every 30 feet to check my map and make sure I was going the right way?)  I came upon the first big hill exactly as Stefiania had described it.  Wow.  She was right!!  That IS a big hill!  Who cares!!  I can do it!  I was a runner for years!!  I hike in the mountains!!  I’m a yoga and FITNESS instructor!!  I eat hills ten times this size for breakfast (well, ok, maybe I hadn't that morning, but still.)  Woo HOOOOO!!  I started up the hill, fueled by excitement, determination… and about three pounds of eggs, beans, coffee, sausage and bacon.  As I peddled the bike up… I shifted the gears down.  And down… and down…. and… wow… this is a BIG hill.  But I can do it!!  Only wimps, quitters, and four year olds get off and push (instant karma in three… two…)   But my bike was already in first gear…. And my feet were zipping around about three times faster than the bike was moving.  And it was becoming nearly impossible to continue.   “Holy moly…. This is really steep!!  Is there a gear below first??   How much farther is it??  I must be getting there, right??”  Wrong.  I wasn’t.  A quick survey behind me and up ahead…   I was approximately 1/16th of the way up the hill.  “Are you kidding me??  OK.  Maybe I should consider getting off and pushing…. Just this one time.”  I got to the point where I literally couldn’t move the peddles anymore.   I had to get off the bike and push.  I had no choice.   “Just this once”, I told myself.  “I’ve only just started… I’m not even warmed up yet, really.  I’m on vacation and in no hurry, so who the heck cares!?!”  I got off the bike and began to push it up the hill.  Thankfully, my backpack wasn’t with me.  Peter was dropping it off in Guiting Power, today’s destination.  After about ten minutes of walking I was nearly at the top of the hill!  The view was getting spectacular up there!  I was on a quiet country road surrounded by open, grassy fields.  The hillsides were dotted with limestone cottages and farms, sheep lazily grazed in disjointed herds, and stone walls created softly geometric boundaries.  I could see the outer edge of Chipping Campden beneath me.  It was truly beautiful.  An occasional car sped past and I would give them a quick wave and a smile which was nearly always returned.  I was happy.  I was living out my dream!!  I was about to crest the first hill of my mini biking tour of the Cotswolds… and I was doing it all by myself!!   I reached the top of the hill and there were glorious, sweeping views in all directions!!  Well… almost all directions… all but one.  That would be the direction directly in front of me.  I had not reached the top of the hill.  I had reached the top of the first bump of the hill.  It was not, however, the last.  This was a big damn hill.  One of my maps said this was 12.3 mile trip and would take me 1 hour 5 minutes, total.  I was about 20, or so, minutes in and had gone about a mile… maybe a little more.  Hmmmm…

Eventually I did reach the top of that hill and was rewarded with several miles of glorious, gentle, peddle-free coasting, down the other side!!  The rest of my ride that morning was mostly uneventful, albeit rather challenging.  With the navigating tips Stefania had given me I was, thankfully, able to find my way without too much trouble… but I REALLY had to pay attention.  I stopped and got out my map at, literally, every turn.  Nearly all the turns and intersections I encountered were only marked with signs pointing in various directions.  Each sign had the name of a different town, and the number of miles to it.  By locating each of those towns on the map, I could ascertain where I was.   I quickly found that it was just as helpful to make sure that I was heading away from the towns in the “wrong” direction as it was that I was heading toward the towns in the “right” direction.  I rarely found roads marked with street names, nor did I find signs with the name of my “destination” town until I was within two to three miles of it… but when I did I always let out a big cheer in celebration… and relief!!

As I neared Guiting Power, I did become a bit confused with my directions and believe I may have been on the wrong road, but a local man out for a late morning walk was kind enough to stop and help me.  He got me headed in the right direction and assured me that I was only about two miles away and I’d find my little village without any trouble.  He was correct.  The road toward the village was truly breathtaking.  I did have to climb another big hill but when I reached the top I could see for miles!!  As I stopped and looked out in the distance I could see Guiting Power (at least I HOPED it was Guiting Power), nestled in the valley on the other side of the hill, just about a mile away.  I was so relieved.   It had been a long ride and the hills were much larger than I anticipated, the navigation was more challenging than I anticipated, and… how shall I put this delicately… the robust aroma of some of the sheep farms and the freshly fertilized Spring fields were far more frequent and, shall we say, “intense” than I anticipated!!   

As I’d mentioned, one of my maps said that the journey from Chipping Campden to Guiting Power was 12.3 miles and would take me 1 hour and 5 minutes, total.  However, without taking any breaks, and only stopping to check my map, it took me… just over 3 hours.  NAILED IT!! 

The village of Guiting Power in the Northern Cotswolds was beyond description.  It’s located in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire on the slopes of the Widrush River valley (thus, the hills) and has a population of around 300. What it lacked in size it more than made up for in beauty.  It was as if I’d ridden into a living, breathing postcard.  Part of the attraction, for me, was that it was so quiet and serene, and I attribute that, partially, to being there off season.  I easily found the inn, got checked in, and settled into my room.  I had a fantastic meal in the pub, then set out on foot, late in the afternoon, to roam around the town.  I was able to take my time… wandering around and taking pictures to my heart’s content, and I was able to do it in a couple of hours.  I was really tired and only there for one night so I found that to be ideal.  I do wish I could have explored the local market but, because it was Sunday, it was closed… and I would be gone in the morning before it opened.  My loss.   

I stayed at the Hollow Bottom Inn  http://www.hollowbottom.com/ and I absolutely loved it!!  It’s home to a pub that serves the most incredible local fair and I was fortunate enough to be there for their traditional Sunday dinners.  Clearly proud of their horse racing history and their connection with The Cheltenham Races, the pubs décor pays homage to this rich history.  As a former equestrian, I spent my entire meal entranced by the racing silks and newspaper articles lovingly framed on the walls, and by pictures of some of the most gorgeous thoroughbreds I’d ever seen!   I, simultaneously, found myself being fully absorbed into the warmth and conviviality of this place and, although I was alone, I felt anything but.  The food was delicious, the staff and the patrons were all so very friendly and engaging, my room was cozy, clean, sunny and inviting… the village was picture perfect  and it’s residents were welcoming and, in my experience, extremely funny!!  In case you can’t tell… I really liked it!

The day was over and night had fallen.  I was tired, I was fed, I’d checked in with my friends and family on Facebook, and I’d exchanged my daily emails and had my nightly phone call with my charming, French tour guide (whom I’d previously met in LA, and with whom I was becoming quite close) about the days adventure, my upcoming arrival in Paris and, as always, I received a big dose of encouragement and moral support.   The bike ride was far more challenging than I expected, but I did it.  I was happy.  I sunk into the great big bathtub for a long, hot soak, made my way to bed and, that night, I slept like a rock.  In the next 24 hours I would discover this was a very, very good thing because, man oh, man… was I gonna need it!!  I had a long ride ahead of me the next day and, although I didn’t know it at the time, todays ride was, far and away, my easiest…

What's the biggest lesson, and/or the best mistake, you've learned on vacation??  I'd love to hear your comments below!! 
If you enjoy this blog and my photos, please "Like" below and share the link!!  Thanks!!  Safe and happy travels!!  ~Amie~

QUOTE FOR THE DAY:

"I'VE LEARNED SO MUCH FROM MY MISTAKES
I'M THINKING OF MAKING A FEW MORE."
~UNKNOWN~
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CHIPPING CAMPDEN, UK  FROM DREAM TO REALITY

4/20/2015

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So… 29 hours after I’d awoken in my beloved Tempurpedic back home, I arrived in Chipping Campden, England; a gorgeous, bustling village about 40 miles Northeast of Oxford.  The second I arrived I knew it was going to be everything I’d hoped for.  It had rows of stone cottages, mossy tiled roofs, cobblestone streets, and trails of wood smoke curling out of chimneys and lightly scenting the crisp afternoon air.  If not for the modern day cars and wardrobe of passersby, I’d have sworn I’d been dropped back in time!   I paused on the sidewalk and just tried to soak it all in… not an easy task amid exhaustion that teetered on the brink of delirium!  Was I really here??  Was I really in ENGLAND??  It was all so surreal!!  

The majority of clouds had lifted and the overcast day had turned mostly sunny, but in the long shadows of late afternoon it felt uncomfortably cold to this sleepy California girl and made me anxious to get indoors.  I was even more anxious to get my blasted backpack (which, at this point, felt like it was loaded with rocks) off of my aching shoulders and dump it in a heap!!  I made my way into the pub at the Volunteer Inn, my home for the next two nights… and the first thing I noticed was how blissfully warm it was inside (much to my delight, this was about to become a recurring theme in this particular village!)  Several gentlemen (I assumed they were “the regulars”) were at the bar having a pint and, beyond acknowledging my presence with a quick nod and a half smile, really didn't give me a second look (I must confess, this was an instant relief) but a woman sitting by herself at a corner table gave me a warm, reassuring, and much needed smile.  I was soon greeted by the bartender as she appeared from a back room, dropping steaming plates of food to the men at the bar and refilling their drinks.  She was a young, energetic woman and a multitasker, indeed!  In addition to tending bar and taking and serving food orders, she checked me in, gave me a tour of the inn and showed me to my room on the first floor.  It was quite large and had sliding glass doors that led to my private patio, with views of the back garden, creek, and rolling fields beyond.  It wasn't particularly fancy but this would do quite nicely, thank you very much!  She apologized for the chill in the air, explaining that they had upgraded my room at the last minute; they had a group coming in and decided to put them all together upstairs, and felt this room would be quieter for me (YAY!!)  She proceeded to crank up the radiators saying “Now let’s ge’cha some heat!”… ahhhh music to my ears!!  Asking if there was anything else I needed (let’s see: bed, shower, internet, coffee maker, and heat on the rise… nope!!  I’m good!!)  she closed the door behind her and left me to the heavenly peace, quiet and solitude of my room... which fully enveloped me and draped over me like a quilt, muffling all sound.  I hadn't realized it until that very moment but, quite frankly, other than various restroom stalls, it was the first time I’d been alone in what seemed like an eternity. It was so silent… and such a profound and unexpected relief to my ears. I just stood there alone in the middle of my room and stared into the semi-darkness.  The curtains were closed and tiny particles of dust gently swirled and danced in the slices of sunlight that cut between the panels of the drapes.  The difference between the constant, frenetic energy of my journey and stepping into the sanctuary of that room was distinct, audible, and palpable… like Dorothy’s house getting dropped out of the twister into Oz, it was as if I landed with a thud and everything went quiet… and I stood there and let it surround me.  I could stop now.  I was finally there.  I was in England.  I was in the Cotswolds. The first time traveler who set out alone on this crazy, incredible, lifelong dream of a journey had actually arrived.  Car, bus, plane, train (train, train, train, train… yeah, I think it was 5 trains, but whatever), car.  Approximately 5,750 miles…. and about 40 years.  It was no longer a dream and had now become my life.  I just stood there for a minute and really took that in.  I know what you’re thinking… you’re thinking I cried again, right??  Wrong.  I cracked a smile, started laughing, ripped that bloody backpack off of me and (chalk it up to sleep deprivation) jumped up and down like a lunatic saying “Oh my God!!  I did it, I did it, I did it!!”  Woo HOO!!!

As much as I wanted to get out of my scuzzy “airplane clothes”, take a ridiculously hot shower and drop directly into bed, the village beckoned, as did my desire to reset my body clock as quickly as possible… so I decided to unpack a bit and go for a quick walk down the main street.

The rest of my night consisted of a delicious dinner at Maharaja, the Inns East Indian restaurant, finally taking that MUCH needed shower, checking in on Facebook as I needed a touchstone with “reality” and home, and a good long sleep…

When I woke the next morning, I opened my eyes, looked around the room and (ever the lady) said to myself “Holy s***!!  I’m in England!!”  My first morning came rife with possibility!!  A new country to delve into, a new town to explore, people to meet and, of course, my first real “Full English Breakfast”, about which I have four things to say: 1) It does not disappoint.  2) It is not for the faint of heart.  3) It is not for vegetarians.  4) It probably shouldn't be eaten everyday. (I’m no doctor… I’m just sayin’)  Two eggs, two pieces of toast, two slices of bacon (mmmm… bacon…), two large sausage links, a fried tomato, fried mushrooms, baked beans, juice, coffee or tea, breads, butter, jam, yogurt, fruit... OMG.  Now THAT, my friends, is BREAKFAST!! 

After breakfast (and although I was so dang full I couldn't take a full breath) I ventured (read: waddled/lumbered) off to explore the town.  My first destination was up the hill to St. James Church.  I found it utterly mesmerizing.  The soaring spires, the curve of the arches, the physical and psychological immensity of the huge wooden doors, the cemetery… the vivid imagery of the bursting bright green and yellow Spring Daffodils juxtaposed against the ancient stone and feathery, pale lichen of the markers, the sweeping views of the countryside beyond.   A church has stood on this site since 1180 AD and the West Tower of the church was constructed in about 1500 AD.  I felt it a privilege to be meandering these grounds and found it all so very moving.  I spent the better part of an hour there all alone… and found myself, once again, just trying to take it all in.  Imagining the centuries of people who have walked these paths before me… those laid to rest here… what their lives may have been like.  I thought about those who will walk where my feet have just been, many years after I’m gone.  I felt I was physically experiencing history.  These very moments are why I came to England.  I could have visited that church and gone back home and my mission would have been fulfilled… the experience left me awestruck and humbled. 

I walked back down the hill into the town and began to explore all the delightful little shops.  Their windows irresistibly displaying all sorts of goodies that lie within… delicate tea sets and hefty mugs, whimsical items for the home, gorgeous wool coats, scarves and sweaters, woven tea towels and linens, beautifully handmade crafts, scrumptious scones, tea cakes and breads… their fresh baked aroma filling the air and luring you in!  I was graciously greeted as I entered each shop, but what I was taken by the most, even beyond the warmth of the welcome, was how deliciously, cozy warm in temperature they all were!  The heat was turned up, woodstoves were stoked, and so many of the shops had real wood burning fireplaces, flames dancing and welcoming all visitors inside!  I’d never experienced anything like it in regular places of business!  It was so inviting and made the chilly outside temperatures so much more tolerable!  I shopped in leisurely comfort, sipped English tea at a tiny table next to a woodstove, and I happily entered a restaurant, shed my coat and scarf and enjoyed a meal in front of a fire… I was practically purring like a cat!!  All in all… it was my observation that the fine people of Chipping Campden, England are NOT afraid to light a fire or crank the heat and, from a woman who has gone through life on a spectrum of personal comfort that ranges from chilly to freezing, 90% of the time, for as far back as I can remember… I say resounding and heartfelt thank you!!  I blissfully wandered the town into the late afternoon…

My second day was spent much like my first.  I was lost in my own little word of roaming the village, browsing shops, sightseeing , taking pictures, and, as I would be biking from village to village over the next week, being outfitted and getting ready for the bike ride.  Ohhhh…. the bike ride… *sigh* 

But that’s another story… and I’ll tell it next Monday!! 


THOUGHT OF THE DAY:

"YOU DON’T NEED MAGIC TO DISAPPEAR, ALL YOU NEED IS A DESTINATION"


~UNKNOWN~

4 Comments

CROSSING THE POND: A TEAR IN THE TIME/space continuum

3/27/2015

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It began on the morning of Thursday, March 19th... the long trek to England from my hometown in CA.  My sister and my niece dropped me at Santa Barbara Airbus.  The Airbus took me to LAX.  Air New Zealand took me to London.  When broken down into segments it was really that simple.  Upon arrival I went right through customs, got my sim card for my cell phone, everything went exactly according to plan!  Ok, almost everything.  I don't really want to talk about my fledgling experience with the London trains & Underground system but, in an effort to get from the airport to a small village in the Cotswolds, I went from Heathrow to Kings Cross/St Pancras, to Euston Station, to Northern Railway, back to Kings Cross, to Piccadilly... No wait... Paddington, took the Piccadilly Line... Or did I take the Piccadilly Line to Paddington?  I honestly don't remember, but I finally ended up on a train that took me to some tiny village very near the village I was going.  Yup, I got totally lost, cried twice (chalk it up to utter exhaustion) and, a mere 29 hours after I woke up, I had reached my destination!  I even met some very lovely, compassionate, helpful people along the way!  I arrived in the late afternoon on March 20th, the Vernal Equinox, aka: the first day of Spring.  Now I assure you, after this trip I felt like a lot of things... "The First Day of Spring" was not among them! 

It's a very strange experience stepping onto an airplane, taking an overnight flight, adding a 7 hour time difference, emerging on another continent, on a different day and, in my case, in a new season!  If that ain't time travel, I don't know what is!!  Sort of "Back to the Future" meets "Wizard of Oz".   If all that isn't odd enough, I understand there was also an eclipse!  At least that's what I was told upon arrival but, who the heck knows??  The young man who was putting the new SIM card into my phone and checking that it loaded and worked properly, was making polite conversation and told me I'd just missed an eclipse. My response to hearing this was a blank stare, a pregnant pause & an "oh?"  He could have told me I'd just missed seeing big foot stroll through the Queens Terminal, my reaction would have been exactly the same.  You see, sleeping on airplanes isn't something I'm particularly good at so, at that point, information just wasn't being efficiently processed.  I was hungry, I was dehydrated, but mostly, I was TIRED!!  

As entirely depleted as I was, I found the journey on the train from London through several small towns in the Cotswolds, via Oxford, to be extraordinary.  As the train pushed further away from the city and deeper into the countryside my eyes began to well up. Yes, sorry, more crying... But this time the tears were filled with joy and came with the uprising of emotion as one witnesses, in real time, a dream being realized.  It was all so beautiful!!! Just as I'd imagined since I was a child, and a thousand times better!!  I saw what looked like a castle in the distance.  I saw miles of rolling fields with stone wall boundaries corralling sheep and new Spring lambs. Magnificent herds of draft horses grazed in the sunshine. There were swollen, rushing creeks with arched wooden bridges. Then suddenly, I lay my eyes on the spires and towers of the University of Oxford, and I literally gasped... I whispered under my breath "What is...?? Oh my God.  It's Oxford".  That's the moment it really hit me.  I was really here. I did it!  I'd made it!! I was in England!  I was on a train in the UK crossing the English countryside and and I was looking right at Oxford.  That's when the tears came... They surely weren't my first of this trip.  They would not be my last.

To be con't...

Lessons for the day:

1) Trust the thorough research I'd done at home regarding the train service.  I shouldn't have asked every ticket agent the best way to get to my destination.  
2) It's ok to be upset and to ask for help. As long as I remained kind and cool headed, people went out of their way to assist me.  It was a heartwarming experience. 
3) Arriving at a new place in the morning is a really good thing.  It took much longer to get to my inn than anticipated and I still arrive well before dark.  

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 3 WEEKS,   2 COUNTRIES,   1 BAG, OH MY!

3/16/2015

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Two little words that strike fear into my heart: "PACK LIGHT".  And I mean REALLY light.  I’m only bringing one carry on bag that converts to a back pack for three weeks of travel.  As tempted as I am to throw in just one more pair of shoes (specifically, my super cute black riding boots that come just below the knee) there is one unavoidable fact that may just keep that from happening… I’m biking through the Cotswolds for a week and everything I bring I have to carry with me on that bike!!  How’s that for incentive to edit one’s wardrobe?    Every time I want to add something to the list I ask myself: “Do you really want to carry that?”  Sometimes the answer is a very clear and resounding “NO” and other times…  hmmmm… not so much!  Take those boots, for instance!! 

My vacation plans and activities are rather diverse, exponentially increasing the challenge. For the first portion of the trip I’ll be biking in England, quite possibly in a chilly rain, and I'll be staying in cozy inn’s and B&B’s, so that means sporty, waterproof and warm.  Then I’m off to Paris where (no offense to the English countryside) I, clearly, need to up my game!  What’s a girl to do?  Pack only mix and match items that have at least two or three functions each, that’s what!  Here’s what I mean:
and 
Yoga Pants: No, really!!!  A heavy weight, boot cut pair of black yoga pants can work quadruple duty.  Mine have the ability to wick away moisture and are a matte finish without any sheen.  They work for many outdoor activities, especially on a cool, dry day.  They can easily serve as a black slack and look adorable and chic when paired with a tunic top scarf.  They make for very comfy lounge wear and are perfect for an overnight flight, AND I can even wear them to do, of all things, YOGA!  What a concept!!

Convertible Hiking Pants:  I hike for a living and I’m in love with these pants.  They are “convertible” meaning that they can zip off above the knee and become shorts and are, literally, made for outdoor sports.  The fabric is extremely lightweight so they pack away beautifully and can be washed in the sink at night and be totally dry by morning.  They’re water resistant and even have an SPF rating of 30+.  Pair them with your walking shoes and a t-shirt and you have an adorable pair of cargo pants (or shorts) that are perfect for a day of sightseeing, rain or shine!  Take them one step further by trowing on a wedge or dressy flat, a sleek tank top, and a sweater around your shoulders.  Add a pretty belt and a couple bangles and you’re set for a casual night out!

Plain Black Walking Flats:  I bought a pair of solid black, rubber soled, slip-on/lace free flats that are specifically made for walking.  They are unbelievably comfy and very simple in appearance which is what makes them so versatile.  Mine are Teva Niyama’s and can be worn with a strap that goes across the top of the foot, Mary Jane style, or the strap can be flipped away and tucked behind the heel for more of a ballet flat look… I love that!  But here’s my trick:  I went online and searched “shoe clips”.  They are small, clip-on embellishments that snap onto the top front (aka “vamp”) of your shoe and take it from simple to sophisticated or from day to evening in one easy step!  They come in lots of colors and styles, from understated little bows and flirty flowers to sparkling rhinestones!  I got two different styles of rhinestones: a white rectangular and a small, round, multi toned blue.  Now I’ve suddenly got 3 pairs of the most comfortable and adorable flats you can imagine that easily pair with everything from jeans and cargo pants to dresses!  It's one more way of adding a little splash of interest and color to my predominantly black wardrobe, and it's an inexpensive, and possibly safer, alternative to wearing jewelry when that may not be so wise.   LOVE them!!

So those are three of my wardrobe selection tips.  I’m only bringing 3 pairs of pants, total, and only two of them get packed.   I’ll be wearing my yoga pants on the plane with a pretty, cozy tunic and a pashmina scarf which doubles as a blanket on the plane.  I’ll be comfy enough to sleep (fingers crossed) and won’t look as though I’m walking through Heathrow in my jammies (not that there’s anything wrong with that).  I’m also bringing a long t-shirt dress and a second tunic. I really love the tunics as they totally change the look of my yoga pants and jeans, and can be worn alone as dresses w/ tights and flats (but wouldn't that outfit also be unbelievably cute with… oh, I don’t know… BOOTS??)   I’m including a trio of silky black, breathable, wicking undershirts for layering with everything; one is a long sleeved mock turtleneck, another is a short sleeved scoop neck, and the third is a tank…  all three easily pass as outerwear, weigh only a couple of ounces and pack away to almost nothing.  My Doc Martin’s are coming along as well.
 My one “luxury item” is a dress that I’m absolutely in love with. It’s a recent thrift store find and makes me feel like Juliet Binoche in Chocolat!!!  I have a dinner cruise down the Seine for which I hope to look especially nice & I’ll be wearing that dress… with my embellished black flats, of course!!  All in all, with only 5 main items of clothing in my suitcase, I’ll have well over 20 different looks.  Not bad, right??  Oh… and in the interest of full disclosure… the jury is still out on the boots…

What are your best packing tips and trip essentials?  Please comment below!! 

By the way:  I’m leaving in only a few days and will have some extra posts coming up!  We’re about to do this!! ~Amie~


THOUGHT FOR THE DAY:  
"HE WHO WOULD TRAVEL HAPPILY 
MUST TRAVEL LIGHT."
~ANTOINE de SAINT-EXUPERY~
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THEY CAN PUT A MAN ON THE MOON...  BUT I CAN'T USE MY CELL PHONE IN EUROPE??

3/9/2015

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Using your cell phone abroad!! Easy peasy, right!?!  Call you provider, change your plan to something called, oh I don’t know, “Unlimited Call, Text and Data International Plan”, or some other catchy name, pay 50 extra bucks a month and, Woo HOO, the next thing you know you’re texting selfies to your BFF 6000 miles away, checking in on Facebook on the Champs de Elysee and Tweeting “OMG! #TowerOfLondon #lunchonthethames #fullyepic”… right?  (insert “needle scratching record” sound effect)  Um, WRONG!!  I know what you’re thinking: “Oh you poor, sad, disillusioned little optimist…*sigh* smh.”  But, seriously, it really shouldn't be this difficult, should it? After all, going on a trip abroad isn't a particularly original idea.  I want to travel internationally, not travel to the International Space Station. SHEESH!  However, after two calls to my cell phone provider, two visits to their local storefront, several visits to their website, two visits to the Apple store, countless online searches, and inquires to practically everyone I've ever met, I came to the conclusion that the solution was going to be neither simple nor easy.  I mean, sure, you can call, text, FB, Tweet and use your GPS to your hearts content but not without coming home to a cell phone bill that is, roughly, the equivalent of a round trip ticket from LAX to Heathrow.

Normally I’m a woman who likes a lot of information so I can come to my own informed decisions based on what best suits my needs.  But after weeks of research without resolution, all I really wanted was for someone to just TELL me what the heck to do!  I wanted to find the best/cheapest/easiest way to stay safe and connected while I travel (and when I say “stay safe and connected” I, of course, mean “feed my addiction to electronics”) and to do so at a reasonable and predictable cost.  Is that too much to ask?  So that’s exactly what I set out to do.  I messaged a trusted friend who is something of a tech guru and travels extensively and said: “Please, just tell me what to do”  Here was my answer:  Find out if my own cell phone has a sim card and is GSM compatible; if so, get it unlocked by my carrier, if that's something they'll do... Mine is a yes on all three counts! Otherwise, get an inexpensive, used, unlocked, 4G, Android phone before I leave.  When I arrive in London buy a pre-paid, GSM phone/data/text card.  Done.  Thank you!  Sadly, this is not the first time I was given this information… someone near and dear had told me this at least a month ago but I was still in the “gung ho, information gathering” phase when I heard it.  Oh, the folly of youth!!

I’ve also been advised to take along my iPad and take advantage of free wifi available at my various lodgings, etc.  Another great tip I’ve gotten is, if you're going to use a phone other than your own, to be SURE you have the data, roaming feature, etc, on your regular cell phone from home turned OFF when you travel or you’ll be, financially speaking, very, very sorry.

Now I’m not saying this is the single, definitive answer, nor am I suggesting that this is what you should do.  I’m new to this and I’m just learning.  What I am saying is this is the advice given to me by trusted friends.  I suggest that you do your own research (provided that you possess the emotional fortitude required to navigate THAT particular labyrinth), talk to your trusted circle, and do what works best for you. Got it??  Great!!

Now I want to hear from you!!  Have you traveled abroad?  If so what have you tried that did or didn’t work?  Are you planning a trip?  What are you planning on doing?  Have any tips you’d like to pass along or mistakes we should avoid?  Let’s start the conversation and help one another out!  Comment below and please be sure to check the small “notify me of new comments” box so you’ll be made aware of any feedback!  Thanks so much & happy travels!!  ~Amie~


THOUGHT FOR THE DAY:
“WHAT I BELIEVE IS THAT ALL CLEAR-MINDED PEOPLE SHOULD REMAIN TWO THINGS THROUGHOUT THEIR LIFETIMES: CURIOUS AND TEACHABLE.”  
~ROGER EBERT~

 

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I SEE LONDON.                       I SEE FRANCE.

3/2/2015

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After dreaming of countless possibilities, combing over dozens of destinations and swooning over, literally, hundreds of Google Images to see what really spoke to me, I finally made my choice… I’m going to England!!  Once I really narrowed down the focus on where I wanted to go I realized I’ve been dreaming of visiting England since I was a girl.  I was swept away by the works of Jane Austen, by watching A Christmas Carol with Alastair Sim, and with Merle Oberon & Sir Laurence Olivier in Wuthering Heights (Which, much to my horror, I recently discovered was filmed… are you ready?? …in Thousand Oaks, CA just outside of LA!!  That’s right… In the 1931 film version of Emily Brontë's tale of ultimate jealousy and woe, our Kathy & Heathcliff were writhing in emotional pain, NOT on the misty moors of Yorkshire, but somewhere near the Canejo Grade… NOOOO!!!  OMG, I can’t even talk about it!).  Regardless, England has everything I’m looking for; history, culture, castles… I mean, I don't know about you but THIS American girl wants to see castles... and plenty of 'em!! London Bridge, Abbey Road, The Cotwolds, Downton Abbey, Nottingham, West End theaters, and, of course, the Moors (the REAL ones)!!  I’m already breathless and I haven’t even left the ground!!   Additionally, and on a very personal level, my dear Nana and, thusly, my beloved Mother, were of English decent.  We grew up drinking tea with our Nana and the women in my family have gone to afternoon tea everywhere from the grand rooms at the Four Seasons with it's fine china and crisp white linen to charming, hidden, one room, village tea houses with their collections of antique mismatched cups… It’s a family tradition that is near and dear to my heart.  So England it is!!   As a bonus, there is no real language barrier… after all, I know that “jumper” means “sweater” so I’m good, right?  RIGHT!! 

After I made my choice I was excitedly sharing my upcoming adventure with a friend and she said “Oh you’re going to love it!  And once you’re over there you can travel around so easily… you can hop on a train in London and be in Paris in a couple of hours.” In fact once I started to talk to people about my trip I found a lot of their sentences began with “Once you’re over there…”  all of them recommending that  I see as much as is reasonable and  stay as long as I’m able.  Now I knew about traveling by train in the UK and Europe, of course, but somehow when my friend said it a seed was planted and the wheels started turning...   I made a few Google searches... and I soon began to feel like Macauley Culkin in Home Alone... you know,  when he awakens that first morning and begins the process of realization:  “I made my family disappear” but, instead, I was thinking:  “I can go to Paris??”………..  “I can go to Paris.”….............. “I CAN GO TO PARIS!!!!   I figured out my dates, booked a ticket and I’m happy to report,  I will be taking the Eurostar from  London to Paris!!   My list for choosing Paris is short and to the point:

1)  Ummmm, Hello!?!  It’s PARIS!!!  

‘Nuff said!  

I’ve not yet purchased my return train ticket to London... But that, my friends, is a story for an upcoming post ;)

So where will you go on your dream trip?  What do you know of England and Paris??   Comment below!!  I SO want to hear your stories!! ~Amie~

THOUGHT FOR THE DAY:
“A SHIP IN HARBOR IS SAFE ~ BUT THAT IS NOT WHAT SHIPS ARE BUILD FOR." 
~ JOHN A. SHEDD~

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    Hi!  I'm Amie!  I'm a writer and the owner of a holistic, nature based fitness and hotel amenities company, a yoga & meditation instructor, and outdoor activities guide.  Join me as I add "World Traveler" to my resume!

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